Tea Time in Sri Lanka

THURSDAY - FRIDAY

It's train ride time in Sri Lanka!  We originally thought we might be riding on an older-fashioned train but once we arrived at the train station, we quickly realized were were riding in an air-conditioned coach for four hours making our way to Nuwara Eliya which is a city at about 6200 feet.  

This is how the British used to travel during the colonial times in the late 1800's.  The entire route presented us with stunning vistas as we climbed higher and higher.  Tea plantations covered the mountains for as far as our eyes could see.  The lush green of the hillsides was absolutely wonderful to view!

This is the heart of Sri Lanka's tea country, producing some of the world's best tea.  The mountain slopes and valleys are a carpet of velvety green tea plantations, interspersed with gushing streams and some waterfalls as well.  

We went through forest, villages and saw many waterfall along the way.  The pine trees are not indigenous to this area but were planted by the British and have flourished and spread so much that they are now clearing them out to plant tea because nothing will grow under them .

We had a few stops along the way to gather up or drop off passengers.  One stop was almost an hour because we had to wait for another train coming down to get by us.  But I got lots of writing done during this stop.

Red or green roofed plantation bungalows, English country style homes and hotels with lovely flower gardens gives Nuwara Eliya a decidedly British character. 

Along the way, different vendors would board the train and offer us their goodies.  Some had fresh cut fruit, others offered samosas and yet others offered cold water and pop.  Our favorite (and only) purchase was fresh roasted peanuts slightly salted and warm.  Such a treat they were !  

The ticket man on the train was dressed impeccably in navy and white and the whistle blower at the stations (indicates the train is moving out) is in all white.  

Everywhere we looked on this journey up to the Grand Hotel was a sight to behold.

We arrived at the train station and our trusty bus and driver were waiting for us.  Off to the Grand Hotel , N'Eliya we went.  Do google this hotel... is is nothing short of  grand splendour!  

http://www.grandhotel.website

The hotel is over 100 years old.  Joe was playing snooker on a 100 year old table and totally enjoyed the experience!  The attendant in the snooker room was quite a lot of fun to visit with and play snooker with!  There were pool cues on the display that were also 100 years old.  The room attendant did tell us there was a ghost in that particular room!

Upon awakening Friday morning, we were off to tour a tea estate and production factory.  After 30 minutes of driving on a very windy road through the countryside and tea plantations, we arrived at the Damro Tea facility.  

 This lovely young lady was our guide once we arrived.  Her English was great as was her projection.

We were greeted by a lovely hostess who explained the tea growing process to us and offered us a tea collection backpack to wear as we walked down to an area where we could try our hand at picking tea.  Only the first three tender leaves at the top of the bush are picked for the tea.  Tea leaf picking is ongoing year round as a result.  

The tea production factory was so interesting.  Rather than me typing about it, I will post some photos and provide you with a good link to learn about this amazing process.

www.teaclass.com/lesson_0106.html

After the tour, we sat and enjoyed a cup of freshly made tea before enjoying a bit of tea shopping!  It was time to hop back on the bus and make our way back to the hotel.  High tea was on the agenda for the afternoon as well as a therapeutic massage in the spa.  A lovely way to end a lovely day ! 

While the ladies were enjoying high tea - the boys decided to play some golf at a nearby course.

The Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, founded in 1889, is one of the oldest golf clubs in Asia and probably the world. It is an institution, rich in tradition, history and carries an ambience unparalleled in this country.

Founded, primarily for their rest and recreation, by the British planters who cultivated the land for tea in the Nuwara Eliya district, to this day it caters to some of the customs and traditions of the country’s colonial past. Everyone had their own caddy, who I am told, had them clubbed very quickly!  

Ayurvedic in Sri Lanka

WEDNESDAY

Waking up, we are off to Kandy today.  The rain is coming down in torents and rivers are running down the streets.  But, the rain is warm and can stop as fast as it can come!  

Kandy is a large city of about 2 million people..  quite a site to see while driving through it.  

On our way there, we had a stop at a Spice Garden in Matale which is one of my favorite spots of the holiday at this point.  We were under the assumption we would be introduced to many spices and perhaps educated as to how we use them in a culinary fashion.

However, we were greeted by an Aruvedic herbalist / practitioner who was our guide.  He took us (amongst a rainforest-like setting) and showed us how cinnamon grows, turmeric, black and red peppercorns.  So many plants in near proximity!  They are grown in this area because it is the very centre of Sri Lanka and the perfect environment for them to grow.  He educated us as to how each one is used medicinally and the aryuvedic method.

Then we went into a thatched roof hut to have a demonstration on how each of these items can be used.  We were busy listening to our host when several 'therapists' arrived in the area to give us a massage with the turmeric massage cream.  What a treat that was !   We were first treated to a facial massage with a wonderful moisturizing cream after which any aches and pains we may have mentioned were addressed with massage.   What fun!

Once we finished with this talk and massage, it was into the shop to buy all the goodies and creams and potions and spices that we wanted to take back home.  

Upon arriving in Kandy, we pulled into the Temple of the Tooth Relic.  It is an important shrine for Buddhists as it holds the tooth relic of Lord Buddha.  It is famous for its carvings and the beautiful art that is unique to Sri Lanka.  The most important part of the Dalada Maligawa is the octagon (Pathirppuwa).  This temple is the most sacred temple in the whole of Sri Lanka.  Thousands of people line up each day to get a glimpse of its majesty.  

After visiting this Temple, we walked to a nearby mall and enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the modern mall.  When the time came to catch our bus, the rain was coming down so hard we could not have made it without getting soaked.  We were going to go to a street market close by but it was getting flooded as it was below ground.  So when the rain let up a bit, we ran for our bus...

After this, we were back on the bus to make our way to our hotel in Kandy which was atop a mountain and meant that our driver Yappa had to maneuver steep, very windy and switchback roads all the way up.  I definitely had my eyes closed most of the way up the hill.  We all gasped when , on a tight turn, we were greeted by a city bus making its way down the hill.  This became a slow, timely maneuvering process in order for each to get by and for us NOT to go over the edge !  I seriously considered asking for a hotel car to take me back down this curvy mountain road the next morning but after being convinced that most of the trip down we would be on the mountain side of the narrow road, I took the bus ... and it was just fine !

There was a beautiful violinist to entertain us in the evening while we enjoyed a pre-dinner cocktail and dinner.  

Tomorrow brings another adventure and bus ride !

Sri Lanka is so full of historical sites.

TUESDAY

A long day full of exploring and entertainment.  

We were off to Polonnaruwa - a medieval city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It rose to fame as the capital in the 10th to 12th century AD after the decline of Anuradhapura.  The entire landscape of the region is punctuated by  huge man-made reservoirs, the most famous of which is the Parakrama Samudra or the Sea of Parakrama, larger in size than the Colombo harbour.  The monuments are relatively well preserved and give clear evidence of the glory of Sri Lanka's past.  Highlights were the Royal Palace complex including the Kings Palace and Audience Hall, the Quadrangle with its concentration of ancient heritage and the spectacular Gal Vihare complex of four massive images of the Buddha, but from a single slab or granite - a highlight of ancient Sri Lankan rock carving.

We were impressed by the incredible size of this area and all of the remaining ruins that were intact.  What I found to be so beautiful was the stunning green mosses growing on the brick.  The brilliant green against the black coloration of the bricks was amazing.   I got a kick out of the outdoor sewage collection hole that was used by the soldiers and staff of the palace.  Of course, the royalty would have their own quarters and as usual, their own swimming pool !

Parliament

The moss on the bricks is stunning

 This is the catch hole for the soldiers and helpers toilet and bathing area.

After enjoying these grounds, we were off to enjoy a village visit --- Hiriwaduna Village.  It was only 15 minutes from the hotel but like stepping back in time to see the way they lived all those years ago.

We were greeted by one of the ladies of the village with the usual "Ayubowan" which means 'long life'.   The hands are positioned as in the greeting of "Namaste" to someone.  Prayer position in front of chest.

Then we were invited into their mud hut where we were given a wonderful demonstration on how they make the thatched/woven palm leaves that they use on their roofs.  They have be replaced every year and a half we were told.

After this, we learned how to separate the rice from the husk.  As well, how they grind their own rice flour with a home-made rock like pumice grinder.  

After this, she demonstrated how they peel their root which is like a potatoe when cooked and most often is served with a coconut curry sauce.  She also demonstrated how they grate a fresh coconut into a fine grate, squeeze it repeatedly to get the milk out of it. and then add onion and spices .  Our hosts tone our meals down as out group are not accustomed to the level of spice these Sri Lankan people enjoy!   We ate on a hand woven plate that was lined with a lotus blossom leaf - yet one more way of living off the land and limiting garbage.  WE did have forks but the locals as well as our bus diver ate with their hands.  

Once the demonstration was over, we were treated to an amazing Sri Lankan meal of which all ingredients came from their gardens or woods.  Certainly one of my favorite meals .

When lunch was over, we walked back towards the road where oxen carts were awaiting us to take us on a 15 minute ride around the village property.  It was NOT my favorite thing to do because it was very muddy and I was terrified of our cart slipping off the road over the hill!  My eyes were closed tight and buried on Joe's back the entire trip until we got close to the start point and were on the road again.  

I was  quite happy to get off this ride at which time we made our way to another open air hut where we were served some tea and sang our National Anthem to our Sri Lankan host who was also the village chief.   There are 200 homes in the village and most of the residents live off the land as much as they can.  They live a simple yet healthy life which was wonderful for us to observe.

After tea, we were walking once again down towards the reservoir where we were greeted by two small catarman boats with paddlers who would take us on a lovey float through the reservoir.  Our 'captain' guided the boat into the middle of the lotus blossom and reached down into the water pulling the blossom and stem up.. in seconds he had it turned into a necklace for the ladies in the boat.  

Later on he reached over and grabbed a lotus leaf and fashioned a hat for us from it..   with the blossom popping out of the top of the hat... very fashionable !  

Upon reaching the edge of the reservoir, we were met by a group of tuk tuks that drove us up to where the bus was parked.

As soon as we reached the hotel, we were off to the elephant walk.  It was great fun meeting our sweet elephant and going for a 20 minute ride along the lagoon.  At one point, I got to ride up on her neck behind her big beautiful ears.  I talked to her the entire ride and told her how beautiful and special she was.   This 20 minutes was certainly a highlight for me and had been on my bucket list ~ Once we had dismounted, her handler let me stroke her trunk and listen into it ...  what an amazing feeling to have this moment of communication with this magnificent beast!  I'll never forget it.

Back to the hotel, a light dinner and off to bed..  Our time in Habarana is over.